... by dickens! ...

there is something about the time change that makes it impossible for me to get myself out of bed before 8:30 a.m. (er... closer to 9:00 a.m., if i'm totally honest), which means that my days do not really get started until at least 10:00 a.m. (and sometimes closer to 10:30 a.m.). talk about a diversion from the norm! i suppose i could blame the coffee, but why bother? 

my initial plan for today (monday) included the british library; the victoria & albert museum (v&a); and the dickens museum and walking tour. didn't make it to the library (again), which i'm blaming on the crowded subway, which seemed to slow everything down (and, more truthfully, my late start, which was further delayed by a spontaneous stop at pret a manger for an americano (i was still committed to staying off the cappuccino at this point in the day), an almond croissant (very reminiscent of my mom's danish puff, but not quite as good), and a half an hour of people watching). 

i wasn't kidding, though, when i said the subway was busy; that was a total truth. the district and central lines were still down, so all travel was coming and going out of victoria. seas and seas of people, coupled by slow moving queues, made it seem like it took at least twice as long to get from point a to point b.  you know what i noticed, though?  although people were frustrated with the crowds and slower-moving pace, people just moved along the best they could, without much to-do and no pushing (at least i wasn't pushed along by anyone). very civilized, indeed.

the v&a is massive! room after room after room of art and design from around the world and time periods - six levels, each hosting a labryinth of rooms.  i started in fashion and saw how both women's and men's fashion has evolved over the last couple of centuries, particularly in terms of style and societal influence. check out the bathing suits (and tennis dress!) from the 1920s!



i also enjoyed the glass exhibits, organized according to century.  here is a view of the railing, adjacent to cases of beautiful glass work.

not knowing how long it would take me to get from south kennsington to russell square, i took leave of the v&a around 12:30, which ended up being perfect timing, landing me at my next destination only twenty minutes earlier than i'd planned (just enough time to feed my coffee habit and have something to eat).  then it was off to the dickens museum - 48 doughty street. although dickens only lived in the house for two years, two of his daughters were born and he finished writing the pickwick papers and wrote oliver twist while residing there.  

after touring the home, i went on a guided walking tour of dickens' london - that was really neat. the tour was based on dickens' a christmas carol (which popularized the phrases "merry christmas" and "god bless us, everyone" and is the most widely adapted novel, ever!), so we visited places that are mentioned in the novel and learned how some of those same places appear in other dickens' works. in addition, we saw buildings where dickens had office space; a pub he frequented (though, he was a moderate drinker): ye olde cheshire cheese; and streets he and some of his contemporaries roamed while in london. now, i think it's time to read some more dickens ...

after the tour, i navigated my way back to the hotel (quite impressive, actually, considering the tour did not end where it began) through another busy subway.  previous notions of seeing a play were disregarded and replaced with plans to check out one of the indian restaurants in the neighborhood. done. and i was not disappointed.  after eating my fill of chicken filled samosas, spicy curry, and nan, i made my way back over to st. george's tavern and put my day to rest with a pint of london pale ale.  this is the life ... this is the life.

... discovery ...

i am having an unexpected love affair with cappuccino. a rushed decision in the heat of the moment has turned into a daily expectation, despite my will to stay off creamy magic for at least one day. this (dare i say) need is particularly surprising because, in the same way i don't like eggs, I don't like milk (only difference is i can eat eggs as a means to fueling my body; it's probably been 30 years since i've consumed a glass of milk). who knew? discovery. it's all about discovery. 

... day, the two ...

i'm taking the easy way out tonight and posting a vlog for day two. a few corrections/amendments/embellishments before you listen (added the next day when my energy was a bit more abundant):

1) when i was at the national gallery this morning (Sunday, for reference), i actually viewed the victorians and the tudors (not the egyptians and the greeks - that was yesterday) before discovering the rest of the gallery.

2) my original plan was to hit the national gallery, the british library (not museum - that was yesterday, again), and the victoria and albert museum.  clearly, based on today's events, i need to adjust my expectations for my capacity to see on any given day. in addition to not really having enough time to adequately explore the museums and other attractions, there is so much to see just walking through the various neighborhoods. i already wish i could extend my trip ... (and i am really glad i heeded the advice of friends who cautioned about trying to take in too many places; wise folks, those people).

3) thus continues my fascination with ceilings (national gallery).

4) i mention this in the video below, but here's the proof: westminster. in the vocal commentary below, i mention my plan for taking in a movie at the theatre; i really should have said: take in a show at the cinema, because that would be more accurate and eliminate the confusion between live performance and video. nonetheless, i was not disappointed with the unexpected change in plans.

5) the coffee. i can't get enough of it. and i've had to learn how to order something other than a "grande dark roast with a small amount of room for cream."  in fact, the need to do something different is what led me to the cappuccino, a drink, hitherto, i did not think i cared for.  the pressure of a queue (no one uses the word "line" here) behind my forced me to make a quick ordering decision when i could not find "coffee" on the menu.  knowing (or maybe thinking?) that i am not a fan of the latte, i order a strong cappucinno, a decision that may forever alter my coffee drinking ways, as the drink was smooth and slightly bitter (not sweet at all, thank goodness) - so good, it tasted like another cup later in the day.  and while there is, indeed, a (usually packed) starbucks on about every corner, i've taken to getting my morning (and afternoon) coffee at another popular chain: pret a manger (http://m.pret.com/?site=mobileuk).  and, finally, i also like the instant coffee in the hotel room - go figure.

and 6) chew every bite. savor.

(this video commentary is five minutes long ... a sort of investment, i guess.).

... the first day ...

so, goodnight gracie it was, at ~8:30 p.m. (truth be told: not much earlier from my normal bedtime) my first night of arrival, which turned out to be a bit of a mistake, methinks: i was wide awake at 1:00 a.m., feeling fully rested from ~four hours of sleep.  thankfully, when it's the middle of the night in london, it's (fairly) early evening in minnesoooooota, and i've got a healthy share of faithful texting companions.  that, and access to late night british soap operas ... i did finally fall back asleep, back into a deep sleep, actually, and did not wake until after 8:00 a.m., a rise time that is completely foreign to me, someone who considers sleeping until 6:15 a.m. "sleeping in."  and even though i "slept in," it still took a fair amount of energy for me to get moving (blame it on the rain).

once up and at 'em, though, game on.  i started the day by getting a better feel for the 'hood.  my hotel is about two blocks from victoria station, one of the major transportation hubs in london (just today, day two, actually, i found an entrance to the underground that is much closer to my hotel than the main entrance i'd been using, which is about 4 blocks away).  the close proximity to the tube is incredibly convenient (thanks, pam h-b!), especially since its probably the only mode of transportation i'll use during my stay here.  anyway .... back to getting a feel for the city ...

pretty much everyone from whom i sought advice re: how to make the most of this grand adventure suggested taking a city tour on the hop on/hop off bus (http://eng.bigbustours.com/international/home.html), a bus that drives around the city, allowing passengers to hop on and off and on again at their delight.  so. that's what i did for the better part of the morning and into the early afternoon, during which time i was able to glimpse the majority of london's most familiar tourist attractions and get a feel for the city.  after the tour, i walked myself to the local grocery store for some (late) breakfast - a chocolate filled croissant (no regrets!) and some yogurt (purposely purchased in an english brand, just so i can say i didn't eat yoplait while i was here).

since it was cold and raining, i decided my time would be best spent indoors: to the british museum i'll go, says i (one of the "must see" places on my list ...).  first, though, i have to figure out where the museum is and the route i'll need to take to get there - a task i completed with relative ease, much to my own satisfaction (you can imagine my delight when the hotel receptionist confirmed the travel route i'd identified).  oyster card in pocket, i set out for the tube and made it to my destination without incident (three cheers for the well drawn tube map and subway signage!). interestingly, the circle and district lines are not running (not until december 30, at least), so everyone has to take the victoria line and make the appropriate transfer to reach his or her destination. the sea of people in which i found myself (the picture does not do the scene justice) as we all tried to make our way to the platform, was pretty impressive, especially when compared to the (almost deserted) platform on my return trip from russell square).

here, the british museum, is where i start getting acquainted with rick steves, well-known travel expert and guide. he, and some other woman (can't remember her name), offer a ~60-minute tour of the museum. why not? and i plug in (glad i decided to carry a spare pair of earbuds in my bag!). the tour is helpful in that it helped me establish a starting point (the rosetta stone - so cool! i wanted to snap a picture, but there were too many people gathered around so i could only get a shot from the back, which is still pretty impressive, i guess) and some of the commentary is informative and interesting, but the tour is punctuated by so many lame jokes and cheeky (not funny) quips that it becomes more of a nuisance than a help to listen. so, i unplug and let my interests guide the rest of my time at the museum. i especially enjoyed the philosophers' exhibits (duh!), the artwork from the parthenon, and the museum ceiling, which i discovered while enjoying a cappuccino (check out the bags under my eyes (that's a lion behind me - not the greatest photographer, obviously) ... yikes!).

before heading back to my hotel, i decide to explore russell square a bit (walking around is hard to resist because london is such an aesthetically pleasing city, at night and during the day).  there is so much to look at - the buildings, the advertisements, the people, the streets ... it's hard to move from block to block without stopping four or five times just to marvel ... 

(sidenote: these red phone booths are everywhere! and i love them!)

back at the hotel, i decide the night is young (and it is, as it's only ~6:00 p.m.) and resolve to take in some theatre. wicked is playing at the apollo victoria, which is only a few blocks away from my hotel. so, i walk over and check at the box office for remaining tickets for the saturday evening show (a perk of solo travel: single seats are fairly easy to come by, according to the woman selling tickets): voila.  and done. and talk about a phenomenal production, too: i did not miss a word!  one of the best parts of the experience, though, was talking to the gentleman sitting next to me, an irishman, who was there with his daughter (a wicked groupie, as she'd seen the show at least 7 times!).

at intermission, he asked what brought me out to see the show (and explained how he'd come to be there, too). when i told him i was visiting the UK/Europe for the first time, he inquired more about my travels, which i shared. we chatted about shakespeare and the joy of seeing the words come to life on stage, and he gave me some tips about places to visit in paris.  we then talked about travel in the united states (several years ago, he brought his family to new york, boston, and florida! and would like to travel the midwest), and he inquired about the "mood" in the states, wondering if people felt optimistic or disenfranchised ... i had a difficult time answering that question, since i am operating in elation and did not want to get too philosophical (that, and we only had about another minute before the second act started).  after the show, he wished me well on my travels; and i thanked him for the chat (my first exchange with someone who was not in the service industry - e.g. hotel receptionist, bartender, etc.), a very nice chat, indeed.

the show ended just after 10:00 p.m. since i had not stopped for dinner beforehand, i thought i might find a place on my way back to the hotel.  but most places in the neighborhood were closed (or closing at 11), so i opted for the grocery store special, which hit the spot and marked a pleasant end to a pleasant day (no, i did not eat the pen).  

(another sidenote: it was well after 2:00 a.m. when i finally went to bed, hours and hours after my normal bedtime, which made getting up this morning a wee bit difficult (7:15 alarm? yeah. right.). could the uk be turning me into a night owl?!?)

... landed! ...

well, i made it. i hoped i'd end up sitting next to a charming, attractive, age-appropriate british gent on the flight over; that didn't happen. instead, my row mate was an enormously large man, who couldn't help but to spill over into my space, who remarked repeatedly about how nervous he was to fly overseas. and then the profuse sweating commenced (him, not me).  i thought i was in for a miserable flight, but once i plugged in the earphones and tuned into delta's complimentary movie sysyem (enjoyed boyhood quite a bit, actually), he pretty much ceased to be part of my existence, save for the several times i had to bother him to let me out of my seat to use the loo (or the toilets, as they are commonly referred to here).

landed in london around 7:50 a.m. friday morning, about 40 minutes ahead of the published schedule.  getting through immigration and customs was easy, thanks to my previous experience in vancouver earlier this year (though, i still got nervous when the boarder guard started talking to me - at least i didn't try and crack a joke, which tends to be my MO ...). once approved to be in the country, i found my luggage (note to self: tie a yellow ribbon around your black suitcase, for the love of finding it in a sea of other black bags that all look the same), managed my way to the underground train, figured out how to get to my hotel (thanks to the attendant selling the tickets) via the tube, and then settled in for a 40-minute stop-and-go ride to victoria station (and, now that i've ridden the tube several times, i know that i was in a car with no heat, which made the ride exceptionally cold and uncomfortable, especically after a night of very little sleep). found the hotel after about 15 minutes of wandering in the wrong direction ... surprise, surprise.

the hotel is quaint, with very few (read: no) frills, which, if you ask me, is part of its charm.  my room is small - bed, desk, batrhoom, small tv, and that's about it. perfect.  the hallways are cute, too.  although check in isn't until 2 p.m., my room was ready when i arrived.  thank goodness, too, because i was exhausted and just wanted to lie down.  so i did.  instead of getting that pint (see previous post), i let myself into the room, scoped out the sitch (didn't take long; see previous paragraph), traded my travel clothes for yoga pants and a t-shirt, closed the drapes, and settled in under the covers for a nap. 

it.

had.

to.

be.

done.

 

two hours later, i dragged myself out from perfect comfort, freshened up, and set out to get that pint. i didn't have to walk far - st. george's tavern is less than a block away.  since it was the first pub to cross my path (and there is a george in my maternal lineage), i knew i had to stop. the barkeep suggested an ale, offering an explanation re: the difference between that and a lager, and gave me a sample before she poured. done. and delicious. next stop, dinner. but where?

the shakespeare, obviously (what other choice did i have?).  the place was moderatley busy (good sign for a holiday friday) and was serving a limited menu.  i asked the waitress for a drink recommendation and she suggested: london pride. done. and since the menu listed drink pairings, i chose the duly matched entrée: the big ben burger -- essentially, a bacon cheeseburger, served with a fried egg on top. i don't even like eggs! truth be told, it was pretty good - or maybe i was just hungry and/or a little tipsy from consuming two pints of ale on an empty stomach. either way, i left the shakespeare sated. 

when i got back to the hotel, it was only 6:00 p.m., though it felt like 1:00 a.m. (minnesota time!). though tempted to lounge about in my room (that's code for: go to bed at 6:00 p.m.), some gentle suggestions from a friend via text, inspired me to have a night cap (er, after dinner drink) at the hotel bar. that advenure kept me busy until 7:30 p.m., at which point i figured a respectable bed time after a full day of travel (crossing multiple time zones, i might add) was nearly approaching.  once back in 420, i managed to keep my eyes open for another hour ... and then it was good night, gracie. a perfect ending to a fabulous first day (you can tell i am tired because i am really wimping out on this conclusion) ...

... 'twas the day before ...

... christmas and all through the house ...

ok. who am i kidding? i am no poet, nor am i clever enough to adapt that holiday classic to suit my needs for this space. but it is the day before christmas and the day before take off. my bags are packed and i am ready to get on a jet plane. only difference is i do know when i'll be back again.

first stop is london. i'll arrive at heathrow at 8:30 am on friday, boxing day in england. my plan: make my way through customs, get to my hotel, check in and/or drop off my suitcase, and find my way to a neighborhood pub for a celebratory pint - draft, not bottle.  i figure i should do my best to find a place at which i can become somewhat of a traveling regular (oxymoron?) so come new year's eve, i've got a comfortable place to ring in the new year (ring out wild bells!). 

after 7 nights in london (and everything that fills my days, including a healthy dose of theatre, museum touring, and more literary adventures than i could ever imagine), i'll make my way to bath, via a day tour that hits windsor, stonehenge, and ends in bath.  i've got two days to get my jane austen on (and other things, too, obviously), before i find my way back to london for a night of harry potter-ing it up in king's cross. then, it's off to paris for 12 days, via the eurostar.

i've rented a flat in the 4th arrondissement, home to the notre dame cathedral, among other things. the flat is on the 6th floor of an historic building with no lift - booked intentionally to make exercise an inescapable part of my stay, a strategy that will surely help balance my copious consumption of wine, cheese, and bread.  croissant? i've got a six-day museum pass, tickets to dinner and a cabaret at the moulin rouge, and a seat at the paris opera house's opening night of don giovanni (and a great pair of walking shoes).

did i say i knew when i'd be back again?

the time is now. finally.

... a video says a thousand words ...

so. t-4 days until departure (gentle (and swift!) passing of time, indeed!).  since i've been struggling to find the right words to update this space, i decided to create a little video to do the talking (er, writing) instead.  before you watch, though, three things:

• yes, even though i am not all dressed up with a special place to go, i am wearing red lipstick. that's because wearing lipstick (in any color) is not something i typically do; so, i'm practicing. and considering i am most comfortable plain-lipped, the red lipstick is a major diversion from my norm. but, it's still "the season of yes" and bold travel plans call for bold lipstick. done.

• this video does contain a bit of mild profanity.  and by "bit," i mean one word, which is barely audible, towards the very end of the take. you see, the record button on the flip camera (who even uses a flip camera any more? this girl, that's who!), which starts and stops the recording, decided to stick (hence the ~7 seconds of table footage) at the end of the video - a mild source of frustration, which manifested itself in one tell-all word: dammit.

•  i apologize in advance for the poor visual quality of this video (and the voice-ups); i am certainly a better writer than videographer ...

and here i am ...